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Hemingway In Paris
(many sources)

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It was the time of the Lost Generation when writers, painters,musicians and composers went to Paris to work and make names for themselves. Hemingway'sfirst novel, The Sun Also Rises, was about Paris.He first arrived in Paris in 1921, with a young wife and the ambition tobe a great writer. Everybody frequented the same cafes and ate in the samerestaurants. Gertrude Stein, the mama-san of ex-pat writers in Paris, coinedthe name. The Hemingways arrived in Paris at a time when the dreary aftermath ofWorld War I was receding and life on the Left Bank had begun to come back. Beforelong the Lost Generation had their territory staked out, and the youngaspirants in letters and the arts follow it to this day. It ran and still runsthe length of the Boulevard Montparnasse from the Closerie des Lilas at theObservatoire to the Restaurant de Petit Trianon opposite the railway station,and by one route or another down to Saint Germain-des-Pres and the Seine.There are, of course, detours and bypaths that one can follow, butessentially the world of the 1920's is still intact. Behind the same boulevard,painters still find studios and writers their rooms in the vicinity of theMontparnasse Cemetery.In Hemingway's time, those who could afford it lunched in view of theLuxembourg Gardens at the Cafe de Medicis, where they drank, according toHemingway, the fine 1915 vintages of the Hospice de Beaune topped off by theMarquis d' Audiffred's marc de Bourgogne.After the 1920's Hemingway often returned to Paris, staying for weeksand sometimes several months. Paris saw a lot of Hemingway immediately afterthe war. He often came for the fall steeplechase meets at Auteuil, the emeraldrace track in the heart of Bois de Boulogne that he so enjoyed.In Auteil, he would convene with his friends in the Little Bar of theRitz every race day at noon and while the bartender made Bloody Marys, theywould study the race forms and make their selections.Every day his rejected manuscripts would come back through the slot inthe door of the bare room.In the 1920s, Hemingway often went to Harry's New York Bar near theOpera. The first was Hemingway's A Moveable Feast, his posthumouslypublished memoir of Paris in the 20's. It has its ups and downs -- the firsthalf is great, and the second half declines pretty rapidly into a series offairly cruel dismissals of other writers and players of the time period. Thething I most wished for when I was in Paris was an annotated map of the city,with Hemingway sites highlighted. At the time, he pointed out, "theaddress <...> According to the fellow I was chatting with, Hemingway livedon the fourth floor. In AMF, Hemingway claims it was the third floor. Nomatter, this was definitely the spot: If you look carefully at the lower left corner of the picture, you cansee the sign for "Le Rayon Vert Discoteque". Hemingway wrote about themusicians who'd play down there all night in the summer for dancing; presumablythere is still music and dancing there! The gentleman who was chatting with me at the apartment was kind enoughto point out that there was another Hemingway site just around the corner. Itwas either six or eight flights up to the top floor and it was very cold<....>" "If I walked down by different streets to the Jardin du Luxembourgin the afternoon I could walk through the gardens and then go to the Musee duLuxembourg where the great paintings were that have now mostly been transferedto the Louvre and the Jeu de Paume." Alas, Ididn't get a chance to check out the Musee, which now has various temporaryexhibits, but I did get a chance to walk through the park on the way from thefirst apartment and the work room to the second apartment. The astounding thing to me is thatthe park, although it was packed with people, was absolutely silent. Although Les Halles is gone, the anything goes spirit that defined Paris in thetwenties and inspired Hemingway survives. And the two women whose influence and friendship were crucial to his literarydeSylvia Beach, the proprietor of Shakespeare & Co. Once you arecomfortably ensconced in your room and refreshed, it will be time to join therest of Paris as they have the apero (aperitif) that separates thework-day from the evening. To minimize the inevitable effects of jet lag I would suggest a light dinneroutdoors at any one of the pleasant cafés that beckon as you meander the narrowLeft Bank streets between the Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine. The treelined ambience and absence of tourists makes it a favorite of locals. You awaken to sunlight streaming into your room and the sounds of this mosthuman of cities coming to life. Skip the continental breakfast being served in the garden and return to DeuxMagots for cafe crème and a corbeille of baguettes, croissants, briocheand confiture. You are in the heart of Hemingway's Paris and just down the street is CaféFlore, St. Ask for a table facing the theater and you will enjoy the view ofthe voituriers opening car doors for some typically elegant parisiennes.Delightfully fortified you should now follow the Rue de Medicis and turn intothe Jardin Luxembourg at the Medici fountain, stroll across the gardens andtake a seat in one of the green cafe chairs that are liberally placedthroughout the gardens.



Resumos Relacionados


- To Have And Have Not

- The Sun Also Rises

- Hemingway's Chair

- The Old Man And The Sea

- The Old Man And The Sea



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