History Of Mexican Cuisine
(Annie DuBois)
As a lifelong devotee of that culinary art form called ?Tex-Mex,? I?ve often wondered how it can be that the deeper one gets into Mexico, the more ?un-Mexican? the food tastes. Once, in Mazatlan, we actually encountered tamales stuffed, not with shredded pork or other civilized condiment, but with pineapple! Along the banks of the Rio Grande, a cocinero with such twisted taste would be hissed, booed and given until sunup to get out of town. But tastes do differ, and therein lies the true heritage of Mexican cuisine, and its favored offspring, Tex-Mex, which was born along the U.S.-Mexican border in the early years of the 20th century. Today, each menu, from Acapulco and Merida to Brownsville and San Antonio, carries the ethnicity peculiar to its own neighborhood. In general, however, any dish drawn from the overall Mexican cookbook can be said to have been bred and born in Spain. Annie DuBois, the ?Salsa Queen? of the online site, ?Mexican Food and Gifts to Go,? knows all about it. In 1521, the conquistador Hernan Cortez and his merry band of thieves came to the New World in search of gold and anything else of value not too massive to stuff into a galleon. Fortunately for the Spaniards, the Aztec King, Montezuma, had been told by one of his shamans that one day his kingdom would be overthrown by men with black beards, riding on giant deer. Cortez and his brigands had the requisite facial hair and rode horses, animals no Aztec ever had seen before. So, in a bid to get his potential nemesis to go home, Montezuma threw Cortez and his men a world-class party, loading them down with gifts of gold. But the party backfired. Cortez reasoned that if the king had that much gold to throw around on simple entertainment, he must have a lot more stashed away at home. The Spaniards, who would have eaten gold had they been able to digest it, were determined to have it all, which they did, wiping out the Aztec empire in the process. But gold was not the only discovery made in the course of that conquest. The Spaniards also found an unexpected treasure trove of food. They had brought with them pork, lamb, beef, citrus fruit, garlic, dairy products, vinegar, wheat and wine ? staples never before seen in the New World. When they got there, they found a culinary Golconda never before seen in the Old World. No one back in Iberia ever had heard of peanuts, vanilla, squash, avocados, beans, coconuts, corn, tomatoes or ? horror of deprivations ? chocolate. In the course of years to come, Spain colonized Mexico and, subsequently, parts of South and Central America, folding old and new comestibles into their own unique menu in the first blending of what eventually became Mexican cuisine. The culinary blending of viands from Spain with those of Mexico may have been the first, but it was not to be the last. Three centuries later, in the United States, the cowboy chuck wagon added its own touch (to this day aficionados nearly come to blows over whether or not beans belong in a chili pot). Native American tribes along the southwestern frontier added a touch of their cookery, creating a whole new genre and even now, new Mexican recipes are being created by immigrant cuisines from South and Latin America, Africa and even China. DuBois offers a veritable on-line cookbook with some of the best of them, most of which probably should carry a surgeon general?s warning that this provender, if regularly ingested, can be highly addictive.
Resumos Relacionados
- State Of Emergency: The Third World Invasion And Conquest Of America
- Like Water For Chocolate
- The History Of Garlic
- Mr. Lucio Quintana
- The Devil In Disguise
|
|